P0556Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
The brake booster pressure sensor signal is electrically valid but does not match the pressure or vacuum the PCM expects, indicating a rationality fault.
Definition
Common causes
- Leaking, kinked, or disconnected booster vacuum hose
- Skewed or lazy booster pressure sensor
- Failed booster check valve bleeding down vacuum
- Internal brake booster diaphragm leak
- Auxiliary vacuum pump not producing rated vacuum
- Partially corroded connector adding resistance to the signal
Common misdiagnoses
- Brake booster replaced when a cheap hose or check valve is leaking
- Sensor replaced when the actual vacuum supply is low
- Master cylinder replaced for hard-pedal complaints
- Vacuum pump replaced when its supply hose leaks
Troubleshooting steps
1.Compare the sensor PID to a gauge
Tee a vacuum gauge into the booster supply; engine idling, the gauge and the scan-tool PID should agree within about 1-2 inHg.
2.Watch the PID during brake applications
Each firm brake apply with the engine idling should consume vacuum and show a momentary reading change that then recovers; a frozen PID indicates a stuck sensor.
3.Test the check valve and hose
The booster should hold vacuum for several minutes after engine shutdown; a rapid bleed-down means a leaking valve, hose, or booster diaphragm.
4.Listen for booster diaphragm leaks
With the engine idling, press the brake pedal and listen for a steady hiss inside the cabin under the dash, which indicates an internal booster leak.
5.Verify the auxiliary vacuum pump if equipped
Command the pump with a scan tool and confirm it pulls the booster to specification (typically 15+ inHg) within a few seconds.
6.Replace the sensor only after supply checks pass
If actual vacuum is correct but the PID disagrees or lags, replace the booster pressure sensor and re-verify.